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Philipponnat

The Winery

Philipponnat

This has been one of my favorite Champagne Sources for many years.
–Allen Meadows

For nearly 500 years, the Philipponnat family has been growing grapes from the soils in Champagne. The famed Champagne house began as a grower and supplier of the wines of Louis XIV’s court. The winery is particularly known for its Clos de Goisses vintage cuvées which are grown on a historical, 13.6 acre vineyard called Mont de Mareuil. Located on a 45 degree slope facing south, the Mont de Mareuil provides the Mareuil-sur- Ay region of Champagne with the warmest terroir. All of their 42 total acres of vineyards are Premier or Grand Cru, but what makes Philipponnat unique in the cellar is that they use a form of solera system aging for their reserve, non-vintage wine blends. They claim to be the first to indicate the prominent year of the NV blends, dosage level, and disgorging date on the back label. Philipponnat’s range of wine is some of the finest Champagne on the market today.

www.philipponnat.com

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Tasting Notes

WA96
From their iconic steep, south-facing, riverside vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay - acquired in 1935 - Philipponnat's strikingly beautiful 2004 Brut Clos des Goisses betrays no suggestion of alcoholic weight or opacity such as one might associate with an especially warm, fast-ripening vineyard. On the contrary, this is a bottling that combines silken feel with delicacy, refreshment, and utmost transparency to nuance. Chamomile, mint and lily-of-the-valley don't just turn heads from the rim of the glass; they waft through this wine's entire palate performance, against a greenhouse-like background of diverse if elusive flowering and leafing things. Salivary gland-tugging salinity and hints of chalk suffuse a fruit matrix of white peach, lime, red raspberry and red currant whose juicy, subtly crunchy expressions put me a bit in mind of certain supreme Nahe Rieslings. This site's reflection in the Marne River is itself iconic, but its reflection in your glass will prove kaleidoscopically spellbinding. That effect persisted during the four days I had the pleasure of following this 2004, and I suspect that subsequent bottles will prove worth following for at least a decade.

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