The 2009 El Desafio de Jonata is in its prime, bursting from the glass with a rich bouquet of cigar, chocolate, cassis and pencil shavings that—believe it or not—reminded me strongly of the 1990 Château Léoville Poyferré. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and powerful, its tannins still concealed by a succulent but ripe core of fruit, and finishing with excellent length. While I`d be inclined to attack this in the near-term, it represents a very complete realization of Jonata`s aesthetic.
“This remarkable Santa Ynez estate is under the same ownership as Napa Valley’s Screaming Eagle winery… this is one of California’s most exciting new wineries. What they are accomplishing with Bordeaux varietals is mind-boggling.”
– Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate
Jonata is a 600-acre property in Santa Barbara County with only 83 of those acres planted to vines. The name of the producer, previously owned by Charles Banks and Stanley Kroenke, comes from a Spanish land grant from the 1840s, Rancho San Carlos de Jonata. The first harvest was in 2004 under the direction of Winemaker Matt Dees who dedicated himself to produce excellent Syrah, Sangiovese, and Bordeaux varietals contrary to widespread skepticism. The winery is dedicated to sustainability as a way to continue to improve the heavily emphasized quality movement that has become popular in recent years for the California wine industry.
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